Bespoke Feature: ‎‎‎‎‎‎‎‎‎‎‎‎‎The Pearl Bellini

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This month’s spotlight is on the latest bespoke piece to be designed and handcrafted within the Hogans workshop. An intricate ring designed by our very own jeweller Keelie Skou, it was auctioned off at the annual Gather & Graze event for 2024 at Toowoomba Grammar School. Since its commencement in 2019, Gather & Graze has been raising awareness and funds for several local Toowoomba charities and as one of the founding members, our Managing Director, Lachlan Hogan, proudly contributes to its operation each and every year. From the immense efforts of the Gather & Graze founding members, countless sponsors and the support of local businesses, this event has quickly become a must on the calendar for many Toowoomba locals. Read more about past Gather & Graze events.

Crafted in 18k yellow and white gold, this ring features an intricate split design set with a lustrous baroque pearl and a sunset-coloured array of round brilliant cut sapphires ranging from blush tones to vibrant yellows. Finishing the piece is the detail of the scalloped shaped band featuring tap set round brilliant cut white diamonds and pink sapphires. In an exclusive interview we speak with Keelie and discover her inspiration behind this truly one-of-a-kind piece.

Q: Let's start by exploring the design inspiration for the ring. What was your primary inspiration for the design?

A: The primary inspiration for this ring came from a fusion of retro design and the glamorous 1970s Palm Springs lifestyle. I wanted to create a bold, statement-making piece that would contrast with the more classic, refined designs we’re known for at Hogans Family Jewellers. The Gather & Graze theme, influenced by Slim Aarons’ photography, captured that sense of relaxed luxury - think sipping cocktails poolside at sunset and enjoying oysters with friends. I aimed to channel that essence into the design, combining timeless sophistication with a playful energy. The ring is meant to evoke the feeling of indulgence and leisure, while also being an eye-catching, memorable statement piece that feels both luxurious and fun.

Custom made baroque pearl and sapphire dress ring

Q: This ring is truly one-of-a-kind! Were you given specific guidelines or themes, or did you have the freedom to explore your creative vision?

A: The design process for this ring was a balance of both guidance and creative freedom. The Gather & Graze theme, which drew inspiration from the vibrant Palm Springs vibe, provided a clear sense of direction, particularly in terms of colour and overall feel. The event's colour palette, with its emphasis on warm yellows, and sunset hues, played a key role in shaping the design. Within those parameters, I had a lot of freedom to explore my own creative vision.

The only non-negotiable element was the inclusion of the stunning freeform baroque pearl. The Gather & Graze team were very clear about wanting this semi-precious gem to be the star of the piece. Beyond that, I was encouraged to step outside the boundaries of traditional jewellery design, which allowed me to create something that felt truly unique. I wanted to push the limits of what you might typically expect in a ring, using the organic shape of the baroque pearl as the foundation for a design that was inspired by nature, specifically that of a clam or oyster shell. This freedom to experiment, made for a truly exciting creative process that ultimately resulted in a one-of-a-kind piece.

Q: Can you walk us through the design process, from the initial concept to the final design?

A: The design process for this ring was collaboration between Lachy and I, and it evolved over time as we explored different ideas. We began by selecting a mix of blush-toned sapphires in varying sizes and colours, which we paired with a beautiful, lustrous baroque pearl. The concept was to create a design that had a sunset-inspired effect, with the sapphires blending together in a graduated pavé setting.

From there, we started exploring nature for further inspiration. Initially, the design was heavily influenced by the shape of a Ginkgo leaf, which became a key feature in the early sketches. As we continued to develop the design, we asked ourselves: Where would we want to be if we were wearing this magnificent ring? This led us to incorporate elements inspired by the Gather & Graze theme, selecting an oyster as inspiration, ultimately tying into the Palm Springs vibe and adding a layer of elegance to the piece. Lachy and I worked together over an extended period, refining and sketching countless ideas until we settled on the final design. It was important to us that the final piece was something eccentric - not your typical Hogans design - and I’m so proud of how it turned out. The final ring truly feels like a showstopper, blending natural elements with a bold design.

Q: How did the natural shape of the baroque pearl influence your design decisions?

A: The natural shape of the baroque pearl played a central role in the design. Its irregular, freeform nature allowed us to create a ring that feels organic, but we also wanted to ensure it was practical. While freeform designs can sometimes feel too earthy, we balanced the pearl’s natural beauty with structured elements to give the ring a refined, vintage-inspired feel.

The scalloped edge was inspired by classic 1970’s jewellery design, which is known for repeating patterns and distinctive motifs. This added a vintage touch while maintaining modern appeal. We also embraced asymmetry in the design, with one side of the ring larger than the other, but both sides share the same patterning and features to ensure cohesion. Ultimately, the baroque pearl’s shape allowed us to create a piece that blends organic form with structured, vintage-inspired elements, making it both unique and wearable.

Q: Did you encounter any unique challenges while working on this ring during the design process?

A: Yes, there were several challenges in the design process. The main focus was getting the flow of the ring right. We wanted it to tell a story, with the sapphires set in a bowl shape on one side and a dome shape on the other, mixing concave/convex settings into one piece. Balancing the two different setting techniques required for these shapes, whilst maintaining a similar pave design was paramount to having a cohesive final piece. Another challenge was ensuring the ring was comfortable, especially with the split design. The oyster bowl needed to be securely attached to the band while still sitting comfortably on the finger. Although this could have worked as a pendant, we were committed to making it a wearable ring that spanned over multiple fingers. This required careful consideration of both structure and comfort.

Collaborating with our master jewellers and experienced craftsmen was crucial to making sure the ring not only looked stunning but was practical and comfortable to wear. The goal was to create something completely outside of what we normally craft at Hogans, and the idea of spanning the ring across multiple fingers pushed us to think in new ways. The result was a truly one-of-a-kind piece.

Q: How does this ring reflect your overall design style as a jeweller yourself, is it similar to any of your previous designs?

A: It’s bold, artistic, and very much in line with my love for refined textures and precise details. I’ve always been drawn to an avant-garde approach to jewellery, creating pieces that are intricate and artistic while still being wearable. This ring is a great example of that - it’s not just a statement piece but a work of art, combining bold design with precise craftsmanship. So yes, it does reflect my design style, but it’s also a step forward in pushing the boundaries of what I’ve done before.

Q: Approximately how long did it take you to design the piece in full?

A: Lachy and I workshopped this design over two to three months, going through various ideas and concepts to refine it. We spent a lot of time comparing different options, tweaking and adjusting until we were both happy with the final design. It was a collaborative process, and we really wanted to ensure every element felt right.

Once we finalised the design, the process of bringing it to life began. Our setter took over a week to carefully set the stones, and our jeweller spent over a day assembling the entire piece, ensuring that everything came together perfectly. It was a detailed and meticulous process, but it was essential to achieve the level of craftsmanship we wanted for such a distinctive piece.

Q: What are you most proud of with this design?

A: What I’m most proud of with this ring is how it reflects my vision and personal style. I faced a bit of criticism throughout the process, due to the piece’s maximalist design, but I trusted my instincts and stood by my ideas, which ultimately paid off.

I’m also really proud of the team for bringing this vision to life, especially with the setting, which was a huge challenge. The skill and collaboration that went into it made the final piece even more rewarding. Lastly, I’m grateful that Lachy trusted me with this design. Taking such a risk was a big leap, and I’m proud we saw it through to create something truly exceptional.

I am hoping this design not only captures the attention of many attendee’s but also assists in raising the much needed funds to support the Toowoomba local Protea Place, a women’s support centre set to assist women in vulnerable situations and provide them with the dignity and safety they need in life. 

 

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