Bespoke Feature: Rubellite Tourmaline Pendant

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This month we’re shining the spotlight on one of the latest pieces to be designed and crafted in the Hogans workshop. We speak to the Hogans team that were involved in the design and crafting process to delve deeper into the meaning behind the pendant, along with the techniques used and challenges that they encountered when assembling and setting it.

Let’s start with more about the bespoke pendant though. Crafted in 18k rose and white gold, this antique style pendant features a 4.80ct oval cut rubellite, 19 round brilliant white diamonds and four pear cut diamonds. The intricate metalwork incorporated on the frame and bale are complemented by milgrain detail, and are the design elements that gives the piece its antique edge.

The Designer: Keelie

Q: Let’s begin by finding out more about the design inspiration behind the pendant. Did you have a source of inspiration for the piece?

A: Lachlan came to me for this design as he wanted to showcase the talent of our craftsman and give our customers a glimpse into our jewellery manufacturing process that also incorporated CAD design. I picked the stunning rubellite for her brilliant depth of colour, she is nothing short of a showstopper on her own. The addition of natural round brilliant and pear cut diamonds alongside intricate metalwork has enhanced her beauty to create a World-class pendant.

When it came to designing the piece, I simply let the design flow freely. I had no preconception that this piece was ever going to be made so I designed based on my own preferences. Without any constraints, I was able to design purely on intuition which has really helped me with my designs and has allowed me to create something that I didn't think was possible.

Hogans Family Jewellers designer

The CAD Designer: Nolan

Q: CAD design is an intricate step in the jewellery making process, and this piece is absolutely no exception with the amount of detail that has been incorporated. What were the biggest challenges when it came to CAD designing the pendant?

A: As we know designs sketched on paper can be limitless and much more artistic. My job as a CAD jewellery designer is to bridge the gap between 2D and 3D modelling to ensure the components work together to form a practical and wearable structure. Although not fully visible, the gallery which is located at the back, was possibly the hardest part to build out in the CAD program. 

The Jeweller: Trent

Q: With more than 23 casted components, you could say the assembling process of this piece was a very time-consuming one. What was the biggest challenge for you as the jeweller who assembled these intricate components?

A: As one of the most intricate pieces I’ve worked on the most challenging part was the amount of focus and detail required to assemble the components. With any bespoke jewellery piece, we pre-polish the components before assembling them to ensure the entire piece has an even and high lustre finish. The intricacy of this pendant’s components meant that laser focus and steadiness were required to polish every nook and cranny. I also had to be very mindful when soldering the components together to make sure there was even heat distribution across all pieces. Doing so helps to avoid tarnishing the solder paste, therefore hindering its ability to join.

The Setter: Leo

Q: Setting is a very steady and precise task. What was the biggest challenge you had when it came to setting the diamonds and tourmaline centre stone?

A: I'm always so mindful of handling gems with care to avoid any breakages. When it comes to setting rubellite tourmalines, extra care must be taken as they are considered a softer semi-precious stone. 

Q: Approximately how long did it take you to set the entire pendant with the smaller white round brilliant and pear cut diamonds as well as the rubellite tourmaline centre stone?

A: In total it took me almost a full day to set all of the white diamonds and the main centre stone.

Click here to shop this stunning new design now via our online showroom or visit our showroom at 241 Margaret Street, Toowoomba.

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